Sunday, November 29, 2009

Spain climbing update - Margalef and Siurana

Had an absolutely incredible week in Spain. I can't believe it was only 6 days...ordinarily it would have been longer, but I get given a bunch of crap if I skip any seminars - this is grad school after all, we're supposed to be serious!

Anyway, arrived in Reus via cheap ass Ryanair (£30 each return!), and after being given the runaround went in and got our rental car to find out that we were going to be charged 66 Euros for petrol regardless of weather we used the whole tank (hard to do on a 50MPG car!)...a minor setback but no matter!

We raced up to Cornudella de Montsant in time to catch some quick tapas and a VollDamm (nice spanish dark lager). Then cruised (in second gear, trying to rally the little ford fiesta and burn as much gas as we could!) up to Siurana in time to climb one 6b (in my tshirt, surprisingly warm amazing weather) before it got totally dark.

We pretty much kicked ass the next couple of days...trying to climb as much as we could and getting totally humbled by 30-35 meter long, intense Siurana climbs (stiff grades too - yikes!)



I did an amazing 35 meter long 7b (5.12b) on our second day but had to sit twice - too freaking long and sustained! Krista TR'd a long hard 6b and was going to lead it, but got sketched out because of a run out section. Day 3 we walked around, did some long 6a/6bs and I did a very techy and tricky 6c+ in yet another sector.

The sun and weather was beautiful, warm enough to be comfy shirtless but not so hot that you couldn't climb. At night, we ate great roast chicken dinners and drank 4 Euro/bottle wine in the camping bar.

Day 4 Krista led her first 6a after which we packed up and headed to the city of Tarragona for a little beach and a change from the monotonous food at the camping bar.

Day 5 we got up early and had one of the best climbing days i have EVER had, we made the trek out to the legendary Margalef, just drove into the little village and found the Refugio and bought the topo and talked to a nice German couple that gave us some advice on what sectors to go to (there are about 100 of them in Margalef!). Krista and I warmed up in the hot sun on some 5+ (5.9s) before moving into the shade and into more amazingness. Margalef is conglomerate limestone and is full of these crazy pockets and cobbles - amazing rock!





Then Krista led (almost onsight) an awesome pocketed 6a, then I onsighted a 6c+ (5.11c) that was very fun and cool and also full of rad pockets. Krista tried leading the 6c+ and got to the 4th bolt - good effort!

We then moved on to Can Verdures (vegetable sector?) - which is an awesome wall, I onsighted a long, technical 7a+ (5.12a), which I was psyched on, the hardest part was at the top! I needed plenty of "VENGA!" We then moved onto another sector and Krista led a very scary, kind of run out 5+...and then I was going to go work on an 8a (5.13b) that some other climbers wanted me to get on...but instead we got distracted by running into CHRIS SHARMA and Daila Ojeda, Chris was working on his 9b (5.15b) project "1st round 1st minute" which looks absolutelly ridiculous! (SEE BELOW)


Instead of working on the 8a, I decided to try to onsight a bouldery 7b (5.12b), which I narrowly failed to do but had a fun time climbing it anyway right as the sun was setting.

The sun set, and I can't WAIT to come back to Margalef! Sick climbing, no people (there were about 8 other people in the whole place 2 of which were Chris and Daila!).

The next morning we woke up and I did a long, classic 7a+ I wanted to do in Siurana 1st go (yeah!) and

Krista did her first redpoint ever on an awesome 6a (5.10a). I was very proud to welcome her to the great world of lead climbing on this trip!



We raced back to the airport that afternoon right after Krista's redpoint just in time to check in, catch our flight and see this view!
A great trip indeed!