Back in Tahoe...life moves.

Alright, I haven't blogged for 3 months...I really should be writing my dissertation but instead I just got back from a bike ride to the beach and I'm sitting outside of my house, drinking a North Coast Old Stock (which isn't nearly as good as I remembered - but its still ale), and watching the sun go down over the pine trees and alpine peaks...such a wonderful place to be for a while, not too long, but a while.

I've been in California for one month today, and have been pretty darn busy since i've gotten here - looking for a bar job, working with my folks for the business, making progress on a difficult but rewarding dissertation, riding a fun new fixed gear, trying to climb a bit, oh yeah, and planning a wedding.

The big events of the past few months have probably been:

- Flying to California to surprise Krista in one perfect, well-planned moment with all of my best friends in town to support me, to ask her to marry me in October.

- Dislocating my shoulder while trying to onsight a rad sport climb in Mallorca (The day after my last post).

-Moving back to the States from Bristol and sinking back into life here.

-Starting my dissertation which discusses Religion, Civil Society and the future of Sino-US relations.

In terms of the wedding, things are going smoothly, we're taking it pretty chill and making it our style...today, we got a ton of stuff for the big day, at a thrift store of course for the cost of about $10, oh and i found a bad ass '70s Schwinn 10 speed for Krista at the same store for $15! what a deal. But yeah, for everyone who will be there with us, its going to be one heck of a great party! We can't wait to drink, dance and laugh with all of you!

My shoulder has been a less happy scenario. After dislocation on a crimp/gaston move, and re-location via one-handed drive across the island of Mallorca to a doctor (picture below was taken 5 minutes after the dislocaiton drinking a whiskey waiting for nick to arrive in the car)

I sought the advice of 2 physiotherapists in England who were very optimistic and said I was lucky and gave me the go-ahead to start exercising/climbing after 6 weeks.

I eased back into it in the gym and crags around bristol and tahoe...was easily climbing 5.11 sport and V6 bouldering, and then thursday...was climbing a hard(ish) climb i'd done numerous times before, and BOOM - shoulder out, shoulder back in, from the same move i did in mallorca in april - SHIT ROCKETS! what a bummer...anyway, basically just means i have to return to physiotherapy/exercise and take it easy with my climbing for the un-forseen future...all this after knocking on the door of 5.13, negative.

I'm not exactly sure where to move onto from here, just riding my bike and trying to stay positive, and be joyful for the health I have...I know Ethan Pringle and lots of other climbers much stronger than me have come back from rough shoulder stuff, It's just hard to deal with a part of your body failing you.

I'm trying to stay hopeful, and mainly just acceptant of whatever God has in store...if it means I'll never climb hard again, or acheive the goals I hoped to someday acheive, thats ok, I will find new ways to enjoy the outdoors and enjoy rocks - maybe long, easy trad climbing is going to turn out to be my forte! I know hope is always the only attitude to have.

Benjamin over and out.

Life.

My life is amazing - i am so blessed.

i'm sitting here in mallorca at 11pm, in a hostel room with two good friends laughing and reminicing about the past couple days, yesterday i onsighted one of the most classic, climbs in the world 'Buf' a rarely onsighted 30 metre 7a+ (5.12a) tufa route which took my breath away before i even hopped on it - a piece of rock that is literally a gift from God.

Today, our rest day, we got a super cheap deal on scuba diving, something i've always wanted to try, and did that enjoyed it so much, playing in the underwater world, then sat on the beach and drank sangria in the warm sun all evening...

i have had so many of these amazing experiences and they keep adding up - great people, friends, the outdoors, culture, travel, life ever anew, constant surprises, constant joys, constant trials and challenges, and its all part of this beautiful journey.

Last week, I was in California, asking the love of my life to become my wife, the girl who has been my life partner in so much of this beautiful journey - now this week, i'm back in europe, charging forward into wonderful interactions with some of the most beautiful parts of God's good earth,

i've travelled more in the last month than most people get to do in a lifetime, i just sometimes can't believe this life is mine and its so great - some people never leave their home town and i have done this much in the first 25 years of my life...and I strive for more, to charge hard in the things i love in...travel, language, climbing, skiing, political influence, teaching, writing, and teaching others to love learning and life as much as i do - times like these pull me through the moments when i feel lost, like my life talent is adrift and wasted they offer me perspective and gratefulness at how wonderful this life is, and what we have all been given by our maker.

Today people, take a breath of air and realize, this journey is only yours, no one else will live your life - this is your path, your breath, your view and your surroundings, every decision you have made and not made has led you to this point...Embrace it!

yay brewdog

had some incredible beers on at work the past few weeks - its such a hard job to have to taste all of them...and then even harder to decide which one i want to indulge in at the end of my shift...we've had some great beers lately, notably some good ones from local brewer Arbor Ales who made an amazing espresso/cocoa driven intense stout just for our rare ales night at the Portcullis
http://www.arborales.co.uk/joomla/

and the 7.3 % smooth going cakelike brew Old Freddy Walker from Moor Beers http://moorbeer.co.uk/our-beer/old-freddy-walker



Though the most outstanding have been the two we've had on from our scottish friends up at Brewdog

The First was 5am saint - the smell of this cascade hop driven beer brought me back to california right here in bristol - an amazing, almost perfect 5% Red ale


Here's the tasting notes

'Had on cask @ work at the Portcullis Clifton Village - Bristol.

pours a beautiful redish brown with a nice one finger head and plenty of lacing

smell just reminds me of california...i had a half pint and kept savouring the aroma - just pure perfect hop goodness that almost all english beers lack...normal piney citrus character, though this one had a unique strawberry fruityiness that was really nice.

taste is just wonderful for a red, just enough hops to drive this amazing brew, enough malts to carry the profile and compliment the fruit...the alcohol is very nice @ 5%...enough to create a lovely mouthfeel and the right amount of warmth (strong by brit standards! haha) but low enough to be a session ale. It isn't as over the top as american reds often are, still maintains the british balance, and is awesome on cask.

freaking solid, one of my all time favourite British beers...one of brewdogs best.'

OVERALL SCORE: A




And in addition had their 10% paradox isle of arran imperial stout aged in scotch whisky barrels.

Solid, here are the tasting notes from last night (bored during slow sunday shift)

'On cask at the portcullis Clifton village

Pours black and viscous with a bit of lacing and a small head

nose is slightly peaty whiskey smokey chocalte liqueur - can you have all that?

Taste starts out sweet and liqueur like and moves into a bitter oaky peaty finish - very nice but not nearly as smokey as some of the other batches

overall a deliciously drinkable, smooth balanced cask brew - rad

Note - some Brits can't handle 10% beer A local literally tripped out of the pub and almost passssed out after a few of these...leaving half of his half pint behind...funny.'


OVERALL SCORE: A-

Climbing update - Brean Down - first 5.12 c/d (7b+)!

Wow, its been ages since i published anything on my blog - i keep thinking i'll be more into it, then i just get busy/lazy etc...in reality, i guess i'm not the best at my online life.

Anyway, to give a recap of the past 6-7 weeks of climbing in england, i have to bring you to brean down.

Brean down is a small but picturesque sea cliff about 45 minutes drive from bristol that offers shelter from the wind, a seemingly permasunny (almost) microclimate and some concentrated classics in the 7a - 8b range.

the climbing is slightly overhanging, and sustained with amazingly cool (if sometimes small) holds - a welcome break from the sometimes strange, beta-intesive holds of the Cheddar gorge.

my first session or two there, i worked through the easy climbs on the left...climbing the 6cs, onsighting a 6c+, and doing a fun 7a...

then a couple weeks in archie and i went over to a 7b (or 7a+ depending on who you ask) called The Roof of Inequity - which Archie managed to quickly flash as its a bit morpho (new word for height dependent) - it took me a few goes, but finally worked out the tricky powerful roof sequence and it felt easy. Here is a shot of another guy on the crux moves of the Roof.

After getting the Roof, i knew it was time to move on to the hard classics of the crag - everyone kept talking about this route called Chulilla, saying it was the best at the crag, and one of the best 7b+ routes in the area (some say quite hard for the grade).

So that day, i got on and surprisingly did all the moves (with great difficulty) - knew it would go but knew it would take some time...i've decided how much I've always sucked at having the patience to redpoint routes over mulitple sessions, and have had many climbers tell me how much harder i should be climbing - figured this was a good route to give some redpoint attempts on.

I spent two more brief sessions working out the moves on chulilla, trying, failing, coming up with new beta. The climb is basically really hard insecure moves off the ground on polished, bad holds, then some powerful throws over a bulge to an akward but good no hands rest...de pump then carry on into a V5 ish boulder problem that involves huge moves on two finger pockets up a blank wall...then a shake out and to on to a 6b slab section top out.

The 3rd day of trying to redpoint the route, i showed up to brean on a beautiful warm sunny day, warmed up and got on the route, and quickly found myself at the rest after desperate moves, milked it for 4 or 5 minutes, then cruised through the crux...i felt like i finally clicked back into reality when i clipped the chains - this was a new level for me in my climbing, and felt like i clicked into another mental game on the send....syyyyyyyked! First 5.12c/d - really nothing in the scheme of things, but a big deal for me. here's a couple pics of me on the route.


I now have plenty of other projects at the crag, including the latest one - El Chocco 7c that involves one of the most interesting moves i've done on a route.

Overall, i'm really glad to have found a great place to go to climb hard in bristol and lots of friends that are psyched as well.

free beer...

Here in Bristol...went downstairs today on my way to the library and saw that they were holding a package for me at the post. I walked over there and a huge box was waiting for me inside which i had no idea what lay.

I was excited to see the sender as BrewDog Beers!

I sent the brewer and email a couple weeks ago saying how much i enjoyed their beers and how they were one of the only Breweries in the UK brewing good, big beers.

Apparently, he was pretty happy with this as the package was full of different beers!!!!

a couple IPAs an expirimental ale, a Stone/Brewdog compilation and another stout.

I'm especially excited about the Stone/Brewdog compilation one pictured here.


A very pleasant surprise!

Spain climbing update - Margalef and Siurana

Had an absolutely incredible week in Spain. I can't believe it was only 6 days...ordinarily it would have been longer, but I get given a bunch of crap if I skip any seminars - this is grad school after all, we're supposed to be serious!

Anyway, arrived in Reus via cheap ass Ryanair (£30 each return!), and after being given the runaround went in and got our rental car to find out that we were going to be charged 66 Euros for petrol regardless of weather we used the whole tank (hard to do on a 50MPG car!)...a minor setback but no matter!

We raced up to Cornudella de Montsant in time to catch some quick tapas and a VollDamm (nice spanish dark lager). Then cruised (in second gear, trying to rally the little ford fiesta and burn as much gas as we could!) up to Siurana in time to climb one 6b (in my tshirt, surprisingly warm amazing weather) before it got totally dark.

We pretty much kicked ass the next couple of days...trying to climb as much as we could and getting totally humbled by 30-35 meter long, intense Siurana climbs (stiff grades too - yikes!)



I did an amazing 35 meter long 7b (5.12b) on our second day but had to sit twice - too freaking long and sustained! Krista TR'd a long hard 6b and was going to lead it, but got sketched out because of a run out section. Day 3 we walked around, did some long 6a/6bs and I did a very techy and tricky 6c+ in yet another sector.

The sun and weather was beautiful, warm enough to be comfy shirtless but not so hot that you couldn't climb. At night, we ate great roast chicken dinners and drank 4 Euro/bottle wine in the camping bar.

Day 4 Krista led her first 6a after which we packed up and headed to the city of Tarragona for a little beach and a change from the monotonous food at the camping bar.

Day 5 we got up early and had one of the best climbing days i have EVER had, we made the trek out to the legendary Margalef, just drove into the little village and found the Refugio and bought the topo and talked to a nice German couple that gave us some advice on what sectors to go to (there are about 100 of them in Margalef!). Krista and I warmed up in the hot sun on some 5+ (5.9s) before moving into the shade and into more amazingness. Margalef is conglomerate limestone and is full of these crazy pockets and cobbles - amazing rock!





Then Krista led (almost onsight) an awesome pocketed 6a, then I onsighted a 6c+ (5.11c) that was very fun and cool and also full of rad pockets. Krista tried leading the 6c+ and got to the 4th bolt - good effort!

We then moved on to Can Verdures (vegetable sector?) - which is an awesome wall, I onsighted a long, technical 7a+ (5.12a), which I was psyched on, the hardest part was at the top! I needed plenty of "VENGA!" We then moved onto another sector and Krista led a very scary, kind of run out 5+...and then I was going to go work on an 8a (5.13b) that some other climbers wanted me to get on...but instead we got distracted by running into CHRIS SHARMA and Daila Ojeda, Chris was working on his 9b (5.15b) project "1st round 1st minute" which looks absolutelly ridiculous! (SEE BELOW)


Instead of working on the 8a, I decided to try to onsight a bouldery 7b (5.12b), which I narrowly failed to do but had a fun time climbing it anyway right as the sun was setting.

The sun set, and I can't WAIT to come back to Margalef! Sick climbing, no people (there were about 8 other people in the whole place 2 of which were Chris and Daila!).

The next morning we woke up and I did a long, classic 7a+ I wanted to do in Siurana 1st go (yeah!) and

Krista did her first redpoint ever on an awesome 6a (5.10a). I was very proud to welcome her to the great world of lead climbing on this trip!



We raced back to the airport that afternoon right after Krista's redpoint just in time to check in, catch our flight and see this view!
A great trip indeed!

bristol so far...

Been in England 4 days now, 4 long, long days and so far been working our asses off to find a flat and have so far come up unsuccessful. 

In the mean time we've had some great pints of bitter, some amazing curry and thai food, and walked, a whole lot. Probably walking about 6-8 miles a day on average we figure, definitely enough to work off all of the Cornish pastys, curry and rice and all the large imperial pints of proper british beers and ciders. 

At the moment, I'm sitting in the second floor of a bowling alley that doubles as a hostel listening to ear splittingly loud music pumping from the oversized speakers and woofers of the makeshift club held downstairs on the weekends. I still don't know if i'll get any sleep tonight. The private rooms were booked tonight, so were stuck in an 8 bed dorm, praying I'm not next to a snorer. 

Flatmate Dating:

We've gone to see 5 flats and their occupants so far, and have figured its a bit like blind dating: you text or email someone to arrange a meeting time and place, then put on your best behavior and game face and try to pace as best as you can to keep rapport with them. Then, if you like them and the flat the rapport turns into almost desperate attempts to impress upon the would-be flatmate how cool, responsible, and fun you are...only to get after 15 minutes of this a "well, i have about 5 other people that are coming to look at the flat so I'll let you know what I decide, it was really great meeting you!" then, the waiting game. The flat we liked the best (an amazing 19th century 2 bedroom top floor flat in the center of clifton beauty), all we got was an email say how nice it was meeting us and how much she fancied us, but sorry she gave the flat to someone else. Fuck. not what we wanted to hear, so alas we are still staying in our loud, shitty hostel, paying double or triple what we would be paying in the nicest of flats to have a dirty shower and listen to disco beats and snoring. GRRRRR, hopefully we wont have to do this for long.